Match your symptom to narrow down the likely cause before calling us.
These checks are safe for homeowners. Do not attempt to open sealed refrigerant systems, touch electrical components behind access panels, or work on gas lines — always call a licensed technician for those.
Remove the grate and burner cap. Use a toothpick or straightened paper clip to clear each small hole in the burner ring — never use a toothbrush with metal bristles or anything that can push debris further in. Rinse under warm water and let dry completely before replacing. Even partial blockage causes uneven flame or failure to light.
The burner cap must sit absolutely flat and centered on the burner head. After cleaning or any spill, it's easy to set it back crooked. A misaligned cap blocks the gas ports and prevents consistent ignition. Press it down firmly until it seats flat — it should not rock or tilt.
If continuous clicking started immediately after a boilover, the igniter is wet. Turn the burner knobs off, then use a hair dryer on the lowest heat setting to dry the igniter area for 2–3 minutes. Wait an hour before trying again. If clicking continues after full drying, the igniter module may need replacement.
If you have a coil-type electric range, lift the suspect burner coil out of its receptacle and plug it into a working burner's receptacle. If it heats normally there, the receptacle on the original burner is bad. If it still doesn't heat, the coil itself is the problem.
Continuous clicking after a gas burner has lit is almost always caused by moisture in the igniter housing — usually from a boilover that ran into the burner area. The spark module senses the moisture as a gap to bridge and keeps sparking. Turn the burner off, dry the area thoroughly with a hair dryer on low, and wait an hour before using it again.
A single dark spot or discoloration on a coil burner doesn't necessarily mean it's failed, but it indicates a hot spot or internal failure developing. Test it — if it heats unevenly, heats only on part of the coil, or makes crackling sounds, replace it. Coil burners are inexpensive and simple to swap.
The infinite switch is the knob-operated control that regulates heat to an electric burner. Unlike a simple on/off switch, it cycles power on and off rapidly at varying rates to produce different heat levels. When it fails, the burner may only work on one heat level, not respond to the knob, or stay at full power. Replacement is a standard repair.
Electric coil burner and receptacle replacement runs $60–$130. Infinite switch replacement is typically $100–$180. Gas burner igniter replacement is $100–$200. Smooth-top radiant element replacement is $150–$280. HomeHeroes provides a firm quote before any work starts.
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